Au Bon Climat Chardonnay "Nuits-Blanches au Bouge 2021

95pts Vinous
The 2021 Chardonnay Nuits-Blanches au Bouge is a powerful, tightly wound wine. Crushed flowers, mint, white pepper, lime and crushed rocks race across the palate. This pure, mineral-driven Chardonnay is superb. The Nuits-Blanches au Bouge was originally conceived to be a more opulent style of Chardonnay, but in today's world, it is decidedly mineral. The 2021 is a blend from Bien Nacido and Le Bon Climat that spent two years in 100% new French oak barrels. Drinking Window: 2024 - 2031

- By Antonio Galloni on July 2024

Jim Clendenen passed away in early 2021, but his style is very much alive at Au Bon Climat and Clendenen Family Vintners. Élevage for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is on the longer side relative to present-day standards. New oak is often in the 75-100% range, although increasingly, the preference leans toward 350-liter barrels. As usual, the Pinots are done with a high percentage of whole clusters. These wines continue to represent classicism in Santa Barbara. Clendenen succeeded in achieving that most elusive of elements in wine: balance. It’s great to see these wines showing so well.

Au Bon Climat started making “Nuits-Blanches” in 1996 when Jim Clendenen decided to “show off” the exceptional grape quality at Bien Nacido Vineyard. We picked later, sorted more, and kept the wine in barrel longer than any other Chardonnay. The Nuits-Blanches style is richer and oakier than other Au Bon Climat Chardonnays. Each vintage of Nuits-Blanches receives a title. In 2021, "Foresight" was chosen as we look toward a new decade and generation. 

  

This vibrant wine delivers a bold citrus punch. Layers of oak, macadamia nuts, and vanilla are followed by lemon zest. Notes of grapefruit, kumquat, and yuzu linger throughout the palate. Its high acidity harmonizes beautifully with the influence of new French oak, promising endless aging potential.

 

The fruit for “Nuits-Blanches” Chardonnay traditionally represents the best of Bien Nacido Vineyard “K Block”, in the Santa Maria Valley. Block “K” at Bien Nacido is one of the original blocks planted at Bien Nacido in early 1973 and is one of the best. Planted all to UC Davis clone 4, this clone in the cool Santa Maria Valley yields grapes low in pH at a ripe sugar level. A low pH Chardonnay will age better, integrate oak better, and pair with food better. Le Bon Climat is planted with Dijon Clones 76 and 96 which have riper characteristics at lower sugar than the Davis clones. The small amount of Le Bon Climat Chardonnay blended into this wine adds a nice layer of complexity and texture. 

The chardonnay experienced slow ripening and a cool harvest, and then handpicked at optimal acidity. After pressing, the wine was barrel fermented in 100% new French oak barrels. After completing malolactic fermentation, the wine aged gracefully on lees for one year before being racked and returned to barrels for an additional 8 months of aging. 

 

Harvested: October 15, 2021

Alcohol: 13.5%

pH: 3.34

Acidity: 7.3g/L

Sugars: 0